Saturday, April 30, 2011

The Incredible Lightness of Beene

Geoffrey Beene was training to become a doctor in Hainsville La, when he was caught sketching a dress in an anatomy book.  He went on to study fashion in New York and Paris and became the designer for Teal Traina before opening his own house in 1963.  

Mr Beene recalled that one of his earliest memories was seeing a piece of fabric and wanting to turn it into a pair of beach pajamas.  "To see something totally flat and without form, suddenly transformed into something else - well that's what it's all about."

In 1994 the Fashion Institute of Technology exhibited 30 years of Mr Beene's fashion design in the exhibition, Beene Unbound.  The fashion writer for the New York Times Bernadine Morris said that the majority of the pieces in the show were from the 1980s and 1990s "when the designer's work gathered a certain force".  I too believe that Geoffrey Beene worked from season to season building on ideas and his craft and that the 1980s and 1990s were the prime of his work.

The idea of weightlessness was an important part of the Beene vocabulary.  He wanted women to feel a sense of freedom in his clothes.  He wanted the clothes to be to the body but never to be vulgar.

This strapless dress from circa 1990 is in deep shade of midnight blue.  It is in avery light jersey with a modern and slightly contrasting black fabric with a subtle sheen at the waist and a fluttering chiffon skirt.  Would be beautiful with a small tailored jacket over it or just as it is delicate and suggestive.



Circa 1990 strapless Geoffrey Beene gown.  Size 4/6.
PURCHASE

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