Showing posts with label alta moda. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alta moda. Show all posts

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Spring 2015 Alta Moda: Dolce and Gabbana

It was one of those typically wet, foggy evenings in Milan.  A strong wind blew outside the storied La Scala, and our pretty princess, dressed in white tulle was running terribly late for the opera.  The doors of La Scala swung open just as a gust of wind swept up the evenings programs, they swirled briefly in the damp air and then landed smack all over her dress.  And voliá!  A Dolce and Gabbana alta moda dress for Spring 2015 was born!




Isn't this dress just so pretty?!  I love the embroidered tulle 'socks' slightly baggy too...


Dolce and Gabbana alta moda jewelry (which is all fine jewelry):



A flower bedecked coat and dress...


and my favorite.  A dress with embroidery inspired by the stucco on the ceiling in the alta moda dressing room.  Love the lightly exposed boning - it must swing very gently like a bell when you walk in this dress...

Photos from Suzy Menkes.

xo, Juliana

Monday, July 14, 2014

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda 2014: Italian's Do It With Style

Hamish Bowles, a delightful writer, perfectly captured the Limoncello scented atmosphere of Dolce e Gabbana's most recent alta moda show in Capri.  From the small boats bedecked in lemons and sage, to a soundtrack of Pavarotti filling the sea foam frothed air and to the clothes which sounded like a dream of 1950s Italy and the Viscontil film, Il Leopardo... it was more then just La Dolce Vita.  

I had the privilege to view the last Dolce e Gabbana alta moda collection in New York back in May and more then just seeing how truly beautiful the clothing and accessories were, it was discovering that Dolce e Gabbana alta moda is just that: Italian haute couture made by Italian designers and crafted by Italian artisans.  

We hear much about the petites mains who make the French haute couture but little to none about the piccole mani in Italy.  And there was an enormous tradition of fine dress making in Italy.  So it is not just buying something beautiful but supporting a heroic but dying society of people who can make insanely beautiful things with their hands... So buy Italian alta moda and support small businesses!  : )

There is a word, a very old fashioned word, which sometimes now seems as lost as the men and women who knew how to make a jeweled button or a hand painted silk flower: discretion.  Dolce e Gabbana alta moda is about discretion.  It is not borrowed and worn on red carpets.  It is about the clients, the designers and the craftspeople.  

And you won't see it on Style.com either.  Here are a few photos from Hamish Bowles and Instagram...




Dolce & Gabbana alta moda.  Capri.  Photos by Hamish Bowles
and from Instagram:






love and baci, Juliana

Saturday, May 3, 2014

Big Ball Gowns in Ball Town

This weekend, all over Manhattan, there are women, getting their hair high lighted, faces misted with oxygen, readying their jewels, having a final fitting and waiting for their gowns for Monday night's Met Gala celebrating Charles James. 

Not much has changed since Kitty, the Princess Ekaterina Alexandrovna Shcherbatskaya, in Leo Tolstoy's Anna Karenina readied herself for a ball...

And this years dress code calling for white tie and decorations will be a beautiful step into the past, with the men in tails and the women donning some serious silk.

From Leo Tolstoy's Anna Karenina and a view onto Monday evening's Met gala...

THE BALL was only just beginning as Kitty and her mother walked up the great staircase, flooded with light, and lined with flowers and footmen in powder and red coats. From the rooms came a constant, steady hum, as from a hive, and the rustle of movement; and while on the landing between trees they gave last touches to their hair and dresses before the mirror...

Although her dress, her coiffure, and all the preparations for the ball had cost Kitty great trouble and consideration, at this moment she walked into the ballroom in her elaborate tulle dress over a pink slip as easily and simply as though all the rosettes and lace, all the minute details of her attire, had not cost her or her family a moment’s attention, as though she had been born in that tulle and lace, with her hair done up high on her head, and a rose and two leaves on the top of it.

It was one of Kitty’s best days. Her dress was not uncomfortable anywhere; her lace berthe did not droop anywhere; her rosettes were not crushed nor torn off; her pink slippers with high, hollowed-out heels did not pinch, but gladdened her feet; and the thick rolls of fair chignon kept up on her head as if they were her own hair. All the three buttons buttoned up without tearing on the long glove that covered her hand without concealing its lines. The black velvet of her locket nestled with special softness round her neck. That velvet was delicious; at home, looking at her neck in the looking-glass, Kitty had felt that that velvet was speaking. About all the rest there might be doubt, but the velvet was delicious. Kitty smiled here too, at the ball, when she glanced at it in the glass. Her bare shoulders and arms gave Kitty a sense of chill marble, a feeling she particularly liked...

I can imagine Kitty in this Dolce e Gabbana Alta Moda dress made of tulle and handmade silk flowers... 



love, kisses and tulle, ribbons, lace and flowers, Juliana

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

In a Palazzo in Milano: Dolce e Gabbana Alta Moda

In a palazzo in Milano, ladies in starched white lab coats with black lace collars, stitch silken flowers, hand-made in Vicenza by a woman whose company made the flowers used by Monsieur Dior in the 1950s, onto fluffs of blackened tulle.  

In a palazzo in Milano the signora of the palazzo, a contessa or a principessa, wears a pink silk dressing gown piped in crimson.

"summer silks lit the hall with a burst of surprise, like a star rising amid the most delicate shades of light: pale pink, soft yellow, limpid blue..." Emile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames

In a palazzo in Milano, on a meredienne-en-confident, lies a vast cloud of tulle strewn with flowers..."

"the wave of this cascade of linen slipped behind the quivering mystery of skirts, the chemise stiffened by the dressmaker's fingers, was about to become alive with flesh, warm and redolent with the smell of love, a white cloud sacrificed, bathed in the night, the slightest flutter of which to reveal the pink glimpse of a knee which in the depths of this whiteness would devastate the world." Emile Zola

In a palazzo in Milano, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have crafted a dream of Alta Moda for very few clients, not to be seen borrowed and worn on  a red carpet, and bedecked with flowers and  jeweled buttons.

In the early 1990s, my favorite designers were Dolce e Gabbana and I dreamt of owning one of their long sheer gowns in candy colors with the long coats piled with flowers.  I still dream of owning one of those so if anyone out there has early 1990s Dolce e Gabbana they wish to part with, please let me know!  And then after the 1990s I felt Dolce e Gabbana became a little repetitive, a little uninspired but they are back!  I have loved the recent ready-to-wear and I absolutely love the alta moda.  I also really love their philosophy that everything is one off and not really covered by the press (very few editors are invited).  It is fact, very hard to even find photos of the alta moda collections.  

For this collection 'i Fiori nell'Arte e le Donne' Domenico and Stefano looked to the garden, to the flowers found in museums and to women.  It is ravishingly beautiful... dream a little haute couture dream...













Dolce e Gabbana Alta Moda 2014.  Photos from various sources.
love, kisses and vintage, Juliana

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Roman Holiday or Do Like Audrey and Wear Short to the Academy Awards!

My favorite Audrey Hepburn movie is Love in the Afternoon.  Well, I love Charade too.  And I confess I love them because I really love the clothes.  The films themselves are both wonderful but the clothes are amazing!  And really isn't that the most important thing☺!

This dress was love in the afternoon for me when I was shown it late in the day recently in Milan.  It belonged to an Italian Countess.  Una Contessa molto chic!  And we love those chic countess' at RARE vintage!



Audrey Hepburn won an Academy Award for Roman Holiday in 1953.  She was 24 years old and she opted to wear a short ivory dress from Givenchy.  Her dress had thin straps was fitted at the waist and with a full skirt.



Our alta moda dress was made and embroidered by hand in Italy.  It has thin straps embroidered with a gold metal thread, is fifties wasp-waisted and has a circle skirt.


The work on this dress is extraordinary.  It is sad to realize that it would probably be nearly impossible to do this kind of embroidery in Italy now. And the cost!  Mamma Mia!!



Unfortunately, the label has been removed so we do not know who it is by.  We do know that it is something special, with incredibly fine and detailed work and was part of a beautiful collection more of which is coming to the RARE blog this week!

I think this would be a very fresh, very ingenue dress to wear to the Academy Awards.  Unexpected but beautiful, youthful and timeless.  After all, just look at Audrey accepting her Oscar in 1954.  (There is a nice video on You Tube from the 1954 Academy Awards which I was not able to link too but you can search Audrey Hepburn Roman Holiday Academy Awards.  She looks gorgeous -eyebrows are a little scary but otherwise perfection!)

1950s Italian unlabeled alta moda cream silk cocktail dress with gold thread embroidery.  Size 4.
PURCHASE


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