Standard Oil's Heiress Paul Flato Brooch at Christies!

Doesn't that have a lovely ring to it: Standard Oil Heiress - sounds like a headline to be shouted out with the evening edition of the newspaper.  Millicent Rogers' Paul Flato ruby, sapphire, colored diamond and enamel brooch is to be auctioned in Christie's Magnificent Jewels auction on April 14th.

This puffy heart brooch was most likely inspired by an early 1930s trip to South America and sacred milagro charms.  Millicent was often inspired by the places she lived or visited - like her chalet in St Anton and when she had Mainbocher whip up some dirndl inspired ensembles or being bedecked in turquoise jewelry and moccasins when she lived in New Mexico.

I love this casual photo of MR wearing the Paul Flato brooch with a striped button down shirt, a pinstriped (Schiaparelli?) jacket and a chunky gold bracelet.

The brooch can be yours for an estimate of $350,000 to $500,000USD...

xo, Juliana

My Tyrollean Fantasy with Chanel Métiers d'Art in Salzburg

Warm up the Salzburger Nockerl because my little dumplings, I am home:

Home is the 18th century Schloss Leopoldskron, a palace in Salzburg.

And within my palace of rococo, I like a little Coco.

I suppose my Tyrollean fantasy started with Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress, who had a home in St Anton and wore traditional dirndls with Schiaparelli and Mainbocher pieces.

So, of course, I was very excited when Karl Lagerfeld chose Salzburg as the next destination and inspiration for the Chanel Métiers d'Art collection.  The Métiers d'Art collection highlights the craftsmanship of the ateliers that do the work for the haute couture: feather and flowers from Lemarié, embroidery from Maison Lesage and Atelier Montex, the shoemaker Massaro, the milliner Michel and the glove maker Causse.

But since my fantasy started with dreams of Millicent and, inevitably, eating an apple strudel, this is the look from the Chanel Métiers d'Art collection 2015 that most satisfies my Millicent moment - and what I would eat a strudel in:

and then there is the work from the artisans...

"I think the image of this collection has to be seen up close, almost touched, to understand how it is done and to really appreciate the beauty of this work."

Karl Lagerfeld

The magic of metal and silk thread, fine scissors, feathers and skilled fingers...

After seeing the video, you really do understand that seeing the pieces in a photo you really miss everything that make the collection so divine and incredible.  And, if you are anything like me, will make you want them all!  After seeing the film I think I would choose to invest in these three:

The fluttering butterflies blouse:

the lederhosen inspired beaded and feathered ensemble - with the sheared brightly colored feathers amidst all of the black feathers in the skirt(although, since this is my fantasy : ) I would have the skirt a little longer which I think would look super chic):

and then this dress because if you watch the video the work that went into making the bodice is just wunderbar!

It is a shame not to have detailed photos of any of these pieces but the video says it all.

And then because I love a white lawn dress with a black cinched waist and shoe...

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2015/15.  Photos from Chanel and Style.com

liebe und küsse, Juliana

Cecil Beaton, Millicent Rogers, The Maid and Charles James #3

"Charles James is a superb tailor in satin and has affinities with the French in his master craftsmanship and attention to detail.  He was naturally delighted that her (Millicent Rogers) orders should be so extensive, for it kept his business thriving.  But after having put so much time into the making of four dozen blouses (yes, you read that right: an order for four dozen Charles James blouses!) which he felt were destined for Manhattan Storage, he rebelled.  When Mrs. Rogers maid telephoned a further order, Charles James complained, "Why, Mrs. Rogers is nothing but a hoarder!"

The maid replied, "Not a hoarder, Mr James, a collector!" True to the maid's words, in 1949 Millicent Rogers presented tot he Brooklyn Museum a collection of clothes created for her by Charles James."

Cecil Beaton

Millicent Rogers in a Charles James bouse.  Photo by Louise Dahl Wolfe

love, kisses and classic Charles James, Juliana

RARE vintage in Departures September Issue!

Our friend and the very talented stylist, Amanda Ross, channeled the most fabulous and also very talented Millicent Rogers in Taos for the September issue of Departures magazine.  Millicent style in Taos was all about turquoise jewelry, Navajo  skirts, and her hair tied with a bandana.

"It seems to me strange sometines that I've only been in Taos fifteen months for I feel so much of it.  As if my people had been buried in its graveyards and my blood ties were in its earth.  I feel so drawn to return when I'm away and so restless with the rest of the world because of it." Millicent Rogers

Detail of the extraordinary beading:

Jean-Paul Gaultier 'Navajo' beaded skirt featured in departures magazine from RARE vintage.  Please email info@rarevintage.com or phone 212.581.7273 for more information.

and Millicent

It's the End of the World as We Know It: Vivienne Westwood's Pirate Collection

The great split personalities in film and television are: Joanne Woodward in The Three Faces of Eve, Sally Field in Sybil and Toni Colette in The United States of Tara.  I am not sure if psychiatrists have delved into the mind of the fashionista suffering from split personalities but I am proud to admit to suffering from a severe case of 'fashionista split personality-itis'.   And just so you know the symptoms are:

a. Your Style Icons are: CZ Guest, Brigitte Bardot, Jerry Hall, Millicent Rogers, Bianca Jagger, Daisy Fellowes, Marisa Berenson, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Debbie Harry.

b. In your closet or you covet: 1950s Christian Dior, 1970s Yves Saint Laurent, Tina Chow's Fortunys, 1960s Balenciaga, early Helmut Lang, Stephen Sprouse, Romeo Gigli, early Gianni Versace, Alaia, 1970s Loris Azzaro, Valentino Couture, 1930s Schiaparelli, Early Prada (and the amazing Spring 2012 collection), Duchess of Windsor's Mainbochers and Vivienne Westwood.

c. Your fashion film icons are: Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief, Johnny Depp in Pirates of the Caribbean, Vivien Leigh in Gone with the Wind, Madonna in Who's That Girl, Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour, Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde, Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, Renee Russo in The Thomas Crown Affair and the documentary of Little and Big Edie in Albert and David Maysels' Grey Gardens.

So, are you suffering from 'fashionista split personality-itis?  Well if you are, you will surely love this Vivienne Westwood for World's End 1981 Pirate collection top as much as I do.  

Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McClaren rocked the world with their romantic and historically inspired Pirate Collection.  

Vivienne has said that she wanted "that rakish look of clothes that didn't fit".

It was the end of the world as we know it and I am feeling fine after discovering this brilliant 1981 Pirate's Collection top for RARE vintage.

1981 Vivienne Westwood World's End pirate Collection Top.  Size 4.

The next meeting of the self indulgent self help group 'Fashionista Split Personality-itis' will be held at RARE vintage next Wednesday evening.  Please rsvp at info@rarevintage.com.  Say it loud and say it proud!

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Weekend Reading 17: Dear Charles... Millicent Rogers and Charles James A Love Story of Sorts

Weekend reading for you from RARE vintage.  Read on...

Dear Charles,

In answer to your various letters, I do think yours suddenly is a queer way of acting.  A while back when you needed money in Europe I sent it to you in exchange for a suit the whole of which I finally got a year later. 

Millicent 

Dearest, dearest Millicent,

In this, I have entirely forgotten or struck out of mind all the dealings which went to make up the total of of 6,000 in Bill A.   I have simply arranged a gift to the Museum for the sum of 6,000, which is entirely payable out of your untaxed income  and should NOT cost you more then 1,000, and therefore saves you between four and five grand." 

Charles

Just Put Your Lips Together, and Blow...

What is sexy?  I saw a preview of a new show, Bad Girl's Club, on the Oxygen network (for some bizarre and inexplicable reason - isn't Oxygen supposed to be a network for women?  Started by Oprah?) and I thought, Good Lord,  are these girls sexy??  To me they seem the complete opposite of sexy.  So I started thinking about what is sexy.  Sexy is not about being totally obvious - that is something else.  Tina Chow was sexy when she was wearing a white tee and an old man's grey cardigan with red lips.  Millicent Rodgers was sexy in a bias cut Schiaparelli that covered her from neck to toe but clung to a svelte body just enough to tempt someone into thinking and desiring what may be under that thin layer of crepe and that fitted jacket.  I personally covet the dress and the jacket but that is just me - Schiaperelli/Millicent?  Um, I would choose Schiaperelli but Clark Gable chose Millicent.  'Nuff said.

This early 1980s Oscar de la Renta silk gown with softly colored brush strokes embroidered with beading is very sexy.  Very sexy a la Lauren Bacall in To Have and Have Not.  

The shoulders are strong and defined (but not too strong, not too padded - as Goldilocks said, just right).  The dress sits on the body without giving it all way.  The dress smolders.  So if you are feeling very smoldering and the complete opposite of Bad Girls Club (which I know all of our RARE vintage blog readers understand and get)  you will just put your lips together and blow or send us an email:)!

 

 Early 1980s Oscar de la Renta Silk Gown with embroidered beading.  Size 4/6.


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