Monday, September 1, 2014

Summer...

Summer unofficially ends today... children go back to school, New York fashion week begins and the days of coconuts and rosé will fade as our tan does...  Bye summer...

Summer in Mustique from Sarah Harris' Instagram

love, kisses and already missing mornings sleeping in, Juliana

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Mary de Rothschild. Part Two. Henri Samuel

"Where clothes are concerned, the only person I trust is Balenciaga.  The same goes for Henri Samuel for decoration."
Mary de Rothschild

I could not find any photos of the interior Henri Samuel did for the Baroness Alain de Rothschild (Mary de Rothschild) - but truthfully I did not look too hard after I found the images of Henri Samuel's own apartment on the rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

His home was, as Carlyne Serf de Dudzeele, would say in her Marlboro lights, enthusiastic voice, a salade.  A mix of styles.  A mix of periods.  A bit like Carlyne Serf de Dudzeele's first cover of Vogue under the editorship of Anna Wintour: a grand Christian Lacroix haute couture embellished jacket paired with jeans.  Well, jeans might be going too far for Mr. Samuel, or perhaps not, but his apartment was wonderfully relaxed not trop, trop like the rooms he did for another Rothschild, Marie-Helene, which although stunning, I would feel the need to come out for air.  

There was an airiness in Mr. Samuel's own home.  There was space, there was light, there was translucence in Guy de Rougement's cloud table, there was the smooth sensuousness of bronze pieces by Philippe Hiquily, a darkened bronze table by Diego Giacometti, African pieces...  it is perfect and timeless...

see for yourself.  

Inspiring rooms: Henri Samuel on the rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré...

The ground floor of a hotel particulier opens to a large garden.  


On the far wall a bronze console by Cesar under a painting by Balthus.  There are brass and lucite chairs by Philippe Hiquily created for Henri Samuel, a Diego Giacometti table sits by the window covered in books and magazines, a trio of brass and fossilized wood tables also by Hiquily sit by the very comfy looking double sofa.  The de Rougement cloud table in bronze and a claret colored plexiglass, objets, a small bar by the window...


It is remarkable how well the 1970s pieces go with boiserie and gilt furniture...





love and kisses, Juliana

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Mary de Rothschild. Part One. Balenciaga

"Where clothes are concerned, the only person I trust is Balenciaga."
Mary de Rothschild

A 1960 black silk Balenciaga coat given by the Baroness Alain de Rothschild (Mary de Rothschild) to the V & A museum.



Mary de Rothschild drawn by Cecil Beaton.


and wearing Balenciaga and painted by Balthus in 1958.


Memories of Florette, head vendeuse for Cristobal Blaenciaga.

Florette's clients included five or six Rothschilds, of whom her absolute favorite was the Baroness Alain de Rothschild, a sweet and beautiful woman who was painted by Balthus in a black Balenciaga coat.

The Baroness Alain was referred to as the Baroness Alain.  Her sister-in-law Cécile de Rothschild, while also a baroness, was Mlle Cécile and just plain Cécile to Florette in the fitting room.  

Florette and Cécile shared a passion for gardening and all her life she kept a set of gardeing tools Cécile had given her.  "I always very open with Cécile, more than with the Baroness Alain.  One day I said to her,  "how can you and your friends spend a fortune on a dress you only wear once.  For me, it's fine because it's how I earn my living, but it seems a little outlandish."  

She said, "Florette, you don't realize with the life we lead - the servants, the houses, the upkeep - the money we spend on clothes is just a drop in the bucket."

"I had never thought of that," said Florette.
Excerpted from The Master of Us All: Balenciaga, His Workrooms, His World by Mary Blume.

Love and kisses, Juliana

Friday, August 29, 2014

The Skin She Is In

Good God!  What is that stuff on Daria Werbowy's face in the Septemeber issue of Interview?!  What?!  What is that you said?  Her skin?  You mean, like her real, actual skin??  Not some pore-less, line-less, airbrushed, creepily idealized version of what a woman's skin should look like?  Not the kind of skin that certain women and actresses are trying to attain in everyday life??

Oh.

I have not seen actual skin in a magazine for so long, I forgot what it looked like.

And Daria Werbowy (and her skin : ) looks beautiful.  Really beautiful.  This is what skin should look like on a beach, in real life and in a magazine.




Daria Werbowy in the September issue of Interview.  Photos by Mikael Jansson.

love, kisses and Daria Werbowy keeping it real, Juliana

Thursday, August 28, 2014

You Can't Always Get What You Want

I truly believe that the fashion system, as it exists now, will change and evolve.  It will change and evolve because I think people basically kind of like shopping all of the time.  One of the reasons why stores like Zara are such a big success is because you can satisfy your fashion cravings every couple of weeks with new pieces that come in.  The internet has made fashion shows literally instantly available to everyone but then you have to wait months for those pieces to finally make it into the stores and by then we have all seen them on the internet, on actresses, finally in the magazines and then the next seasons collections are about to be shown.  For better or for worse we are becoming a society of a more instant gratification.  

Like the Isabel Marant resort collection for 2015.  I could buy and wear these pieces right now.  But patience is a virtue... I suppose...


Happy to see that the Birkenstock story continues for resort 2015 - probably my husbands least favorite trend since MC Hammer pants, but I love them!






love, kisses and patience, Juliana

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

La Bella Vita di Federico Forquet

I was so happy to see the article on Mr. Federico Forquet in Sunday's NYTimes T magazine.  It offered a small but tantalizing glimpse into the beautiful world of Mr Forquet, a fashion designer who left fashion in 1972 when he no longer felt he could make the kind of clothes he wanted to (haute couture not pret a porter).  Oddly enough 1972 is the same year Cristobal Balenciaga, Forquet's mentor, also decided enough was enough and closed his doors too.

But when one door closes, another door opens and Mr. Forquet found the thousands of the tiny lily of the valley flowers he had once hand sewn onto a dress for the great beauty Allegra Caracciolo Agnelli, not in silk anymore but in a scented garden he designed in the verdant hills of Tuscany.

Mr. Forquet also designed the interiors of his home in Tuscany - as well as homes for friends like the apartment in Rome he recently decorated for Ginevra Elkann, the grandaughter of Marella Agnelli, which was featured in T magazine in February.

I have counted myself very fortunate to have had some very special, very rare, Forquet gowns from the 1960s at RARE vintage too...

A door opens onto the garden from the summer living room at Forquet's home near Cetona, Tuscany .  Note the beautiful gilded table with the ceramic vegetables near the door...


Forquet designed the wicker furniture, the sofa and the folding screen all of which are on a floor of cotto, a type of Italian brick, for the summer living room...


19th century still lifes and garden landscapes over a Neapolitan daybed Forquet inherited.  I love the sage and cream ticking on the daybed, the wicker chair, the simple white bench with a white cushion tied at the legs...


The master bedroom with its vine covered coverlet and a desk where Forquet drew his fashion sketches as a child.  Home and garden seem united, the view from a window or a door always seems to be framed in a shade of green, bringing the garden into the rooms...


The outdoor rooms of the garden...  isn't this terraced garden remarkably beautiful?!  The great Russell Page, suggested paths and walls of tuffo, a stone commonly found in Tuscany...


A pergola covered in roses and fallen petals on the path...

Federico Forquet's home and garden in Tuscany.  All photos from NYTimes.

and that is all of our glimpse into the private world and la bella vita di Federico Forquet...

love and baci, Juliana

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

The Bob Mackie Black Domino

Awhile back at RARE vintage, we had a nothing less then spectacular Bob Mackie black domino that Shalom Harlow had worn to the 2009 Met gala, The Model as Muse.  Hamish Bowles, the authority on all things stylish, declared Shalom Harlow to be best dressed for the evening.  

As it happens with vintage there is a story.  Shalom Harlow found the vintage Bob Mackie, not at RARE vintage but another vintage store here in New York, where it had been before, who it had belonged to, I do not know.  I would love to know it's history before it found its way to Shalom Harlow and the party of the year, the Met Gala, because you just know such a special piece, so romantic,  so dramatic, it most certainly belonged to a woman with a strong sense of the wonderful.  Maybe she wore it to feed her chickens a la the Duchess of Devonshire...


maybe she was an American in Paris and wore it in a hotel particulier at 34, avenue New York a la Mona Bismarck...  


whatever its story, you just know there was one...

How could there not be.  Shalom Harlow wore it with a beaded Nina Ricci black beaded catsuit and then donated it to Elettra Wiedemann's charity One Frickin' Day and that is when it came to us at RARE vintage.



It was bought by our client - who has an amazing sense of style - and when she decided it was time to let the Mackie go on and find its next story, she brought it back to RARE vintage.  She came in looking super chic in an enviously effortless kind of way (I feel like for me to look that chic it would take concerted effort) wearing a massive Christian Lacroix necklace and two Pauline Trigere gilt cuffs.  You don't see that kind of chic often enough these days and it made my day brighter.

So here it is the Bob Mackie black silk domino, the ruffles lined in horsehair, ready for its next story...

Bob Mackie black silk domino available for purchase at RARE vintage.


The Mackie domino can be purchased here.

love and kisses, Juliana

Monday, August 25, 2014

Call Me Muffy

All I want for the fall is a muff from Celine, well, not all...







Celine Winter 2014 velvet shearling muff.  Photos from Celine.com

love, kisses and feeling muffy, Juliana



Sunday, August 24, 2014

Inspiring Rooms: Peggy Guggenheim's Bedroom in Venice

Peggy Guggenheim's house, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, in Venice is a magical place.  It is a low, grand, cool oasis and as soon as you enter its Clare Falkenstein gates with bits of translucent amber, turquoise and ruby colored glass inserted into a web of iron, you know you are in a place like no other.  

One of my favorite rooms is Peggy Guggenheim's bedroom.  In 1945 Guggenheim commissioned Alexander Calder to create a silver bed head for her bedroom.  Calder created, in hammered silver, a swirling, light reflecting, bed head of sea and plant life.  




It is incredibly beautiful.  When Peggy Guggenheim was living, the bedroom was painted turquoise and I can imagine  Peggy Guggenheim in her "dream world" with "the waves splashing against the bedroom walls.  In summer I wake at 4AM and watch the dawn.  The light is so wonderful.  The vegetable and fruit barges are passing underneath the window.  I watch them, then pull the blinds and go back to sleep."






love, kisses and dreaming of a silver Calder in a turquoise bedroom in Venice, Juliana

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Lisa Perry in RARE vintage Courreges!

Lisa Perry bought this awhile back from RARE vintage and I was happy to see her wearing our (well, her : ) pop of yellow Courreges haute couture gown again on Hamish Bowles' Instagram...


Lisa Perry in Courreges haute couture from RARE vintage.  Photo by Hamish Bowles.

love, kisses and we have such beautiful and chic clients, Juliana

Friday, August 22, 2014

Books Fall 2014: Loulou de la Falaise

You can never be too rich or have too many books.

If I had a pillow embroidered with a motto (which I most certainly do not : ), it would say something like that.  I just added another bookshelf to our bedroom, at our beach house, and everyone said it was not going to be big enough... don't you just hate when people say "I told you so!" 

So I found a spot for another bookshelf in my dressing room, which means I can keep on buying books!

And it will be just in time because some ah-mazing books are coming out in the fall!  On my pre-order list is Loulou de la Falaise by Ariel de Ravenel and Natash Fraser-Cavassoni.  The afterword is by Loulou de la Falaise's husband, Thadee Klossowski, and the foreword is by Pierre Berge.

Betty Catroux remembering her friend Loulou, said that she saw life in pink.  I really like the idea of "life in pink".

BC also spoke about her creativity:

"All the women in her family were creative.  It was in her blood.  To create things was an absolute must for her.  She would take a piece of fabric, wrap it in a turban on her head, and pin it with a clip."

Loulou de la Falaise was, of course, great friends with Yves Saint Laurent, but she also went to work for him in 1972 designing the jewelry and hats and I hope the book will cover her jewelry designs too...


You can pre-order the book here.

love, kisses and life in the pink, Juliana



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