Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Yves Saint Laurent, Nan Kempner, and Miu Miu

This window display at Miu Miu on 57th street, 

Miu Miu window on 57 Street

got me to thinking about this woman,

because after Nan Kempner died and the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art had closed the exhibit, Nan Kempner: American Chic, some of Mrs. Kempner's wardrobe was offered for sale to benefit the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center and I purchased some pieces from her famed and vast wardrobe.

One piece was this Yves Saint Laurent rive gauche knitted vest,

Nan Kempner's YSL vest at RARE vintage.

which brings be back to the Miu Miu knitted vest in the window on 57th street.  

Doubtless, Saint Laurent was inspired by hippie granny chic when he did his own version and Miuccia Prada too, who famously wore YSL to communist meetings in 1970s Milan, was undoubtedly inspired by Saint Laurent.

who also wore the very same vest...

xo, Juliana

Saturday, December 6, 2014

My Tyrollean Fantasy with Chanel Métiers d'Art in Salzburg

Warm up the Salzburger Nockerl because my little dumplings, I am home:

Home is the 18th century Schloss Leopoldskron, a palace in Salzburg.

And within my palace of rococo, I like a little Coco.

I suppose my Tyrollean fantasy started with Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress, who had a home in St Anton and wore traditional dirndls with Schiaparelli and Mainbocher pieces.

So, of course, I was very excited when Karl Lagerfeld chose Salzburg as the next destination and inspiration for the Chanel Métiers d'Art collection.  The Métiers d'Art collection highlights the craftsmanship of the ateliers that do the work for the haute couture: feather and flowers from Lemarié, embroidery from Maison Lesage and Atelier Montex, the shoemaker Massaro, the milliner Michel and the glove maker Causse.

But since my fantasy started with dreams of Millicent and, inevitably, eating an apple strudel, this is the look from the Chanel Métiers d'Art collection 2015 that most satisfies my Millicent moment - and what I would eat a strudel in:

and then there is the work from the artisans...

"I think the image of this collection has to be seen up close, almost touched, to understand how it is done and to really appreciate the beauty of this work."
Karl Lagerfeld

The magic of metal and silk thread, fine scissors, feathers and skilled fingers...

After seeing the video, you really do understand that seeing the pieces in a photo you really miss everything that make the collection so divine and incredible.  And, if you are anything like me, will make you want them all!  After seeing the film I think I would choose to invest in these three:

The fluttering butterflies blouse:

the lederhosen inspired beaded and feathered ensemble - with the sheared brightly colored feathers amidst all of the black feathers in the skirt(although, since this is my fantasy : ) I would have the skirt a little longer which I think would look super chic):

and then this dress because if you watch the video the work that went into making the bodice is just wunderbar!

It is a shame not to have detailed photos of any of these pieces but the video says it all.

And then because I love a white lawn dress with a black cinched waist and shoe...

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2015/15.  Photos from Chanel and Style.com

liebe und küsse, Juliana

Thursday, November 20, 2014

A Tantalizing Glimpse: Bunny Mellon's Plane

I was just speaking to a friend recently about Bunny Mellon's private plane and how curious we were about the interior of the plane.  Were there baskets, hats, a Rothko??  Here is a tantalizing glimpse at Mrs. Mellon's plane:

Bunny Mellon's private plane.  Image from Sotheby's.
xo, Juliana

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Bunny Mellon's Well Appointed Desk

There are many wonderful things in the upcoming Bunny Mellon auction at Sotheby's but some of my favorite pieces are Mrs. Mellon's desk accessories.

Rachel 'Bunny' Lambert's very well appointed desk:

A group of gold and bamboo pens by Cartier:

A gold and agate bowl by Schlumberger:

A gold sea shell clock by Schlumberger:

A sodalite, gold and emerald letter opener with an agate and gold letter opener:

A gold sea urchin clock by Schlumberger:

A pair of gold and lapis lazuli picture frames:

A pair of Schlumberger pens, one with coral accents:

A gold pearl and diamond box inscribed ' Happy Anniversary Darling Bun, 1 May 1977'

and I believe Mrs. Mellon had this rock crystal and sodalite rhinoceros by Fulco di Verdua on a mantle but I would keep it on my desk:

Collection of Bunny Mellon.  All photos from Sotheby's.

xo, Juliana

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Baby It Is Hermes Cold Outside

I am feeling very Katy Perry, Hot N Cold, about the weather in New York these days:

You change your mind 
Like a girl changes clothes

'Cause you're hot then you're cold
You're yes then you're no
You're in then you're out
You're up then you're down
You're wrong when it's right...

You know what I mean?  Last week it was 70 degrees and this week it is going to be 14 degrees.  So home for the holidays on the east coast, could be hot, could be cold...

I adore this Hermes sweater with an illustration by Dimitri Rybaltchenko.  Not only is it ideal for whether or not the weather is hot or cold, it also has a lovely bucolic snow scene with horses, goat herders and a giant, ancient tree with its boughs covered in snow.

Hermes 'Winter Scene' Sweater.  Available for purchase here.

Dimitri Rybaltchenko has written that his illustrations are meant to invoke dreams, magic and world of childhood.

xo, Juliana

Bunny Mellon Style

I am sure you know, Cristóbal Balenciaga did the complete wardrobe of Madame Bunny Mellon until he retired and Hubert de Givenchy took over - Mrs. Mellon even had her own atelier in Maison Givenchy.

"She was very shy, very timid.  I never thought she would order any clothes from me.  But the next collection, we sent off sketches and samples and she ordered a lot of clothes."

Givenchy even made her gardening hats - which is really the ne plus extra in chic don't you think...

"I made hats in denim, and jean, and cotton.  Because Bunny bought in quantity.  And sometimes I would say to her, 'Bunny why do you need so many?'  And she'd say, 'Because I might lose it.'"

So, as I was reading and looking through the catalogs last night, I saw a photo of Mrs. Mellon that I had not seen before and fell in love with how chic and classic she looked in this particular photo:

I was very fortunate to have bought a couple of Mrs. Mellon's Balenciaga's a few years ago for RARE vintage and you can see them here and here.

xo, Juliana

Friday, November 14, 2014

& Just Because

If you saw the film Julie and Julia, didn't you, truthfully, just want to get through the Julie part to get to the juicier Julia part?  I confess I did and now someone spent the time to edit out Julie and we have: & Julia.

Bon appétit!

xo, Juliana

Bunny Mellon and I

Tomorrow the preview starts at Sotheby's for the Bunny Mellon sale and I am soooo excited to see Mrs. Mellon's collection!  Sadly, none of Mrs. Mellon's famed Balenciaga and Givenchy wardrobe is included in the sale but I did see a bag in the catalog that I am sure was custom made for Bunny Mellon by her great friend and couturier, Hubert de Givenchy.  

The bag has the name of the Mellon's Virgina home, Oak Spring Farm, and the reason why I strongly suspect it is Givenchy, because Givenchy made all of her wardrobe and...

This is my Givenchy bag which had belonged to my husband's grandmother.  It has always been my favorite summer bag and now I love it even more that I know the very discreet and very chic Bunny Mellon was carrying a similar bag.

xo, Juliana

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Valentino's Butterflies

One of my favorite new pieces at RARE vintage is this beautiful Valentino haute couture dress from the 1970s with butterflies.

1970s Valentino Haute Couture Butterfly dress available for purchase here.

I have not yet bought Valentino's new book, Valentino: At The Emperor's Table, but I am looking forward to seeing the world of Valentino.  He has been a long time collector of china and objets and those pieces in his home have influenced his fashion designs as well.

"My tables today, they are almost like one of my dresses, I try to put in detail.  Because I love objects, I love to put flowers, I love to put mint, chocolate, everything on them.  I love color.  And this comes from my fashion design career.  I love colored tablecloths, because china is very beautiful on top of pale yellow, dusty pink, pale and jade green color."

Valentino's butterflies in Gstaad on china:

and butterfly detail on Valentino's silk couture dress:

So do you think Valentino would have thought of the color of this dress as mint or a pale jade green?  Either way it is a very beautiful dress, beautifully made, rare and sets just the right tone of lady like chic with its scarf tie front and the bit of the bohemian with the fluttering butterflies.  Perfect for lunch at the Emperor's table don't you think?!

xo, Juliana

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Shockingly Short: Marco Zanini Out at Schiaparelli

Well, truthfully, I don't know if it is so shocking that Marco Zanini is out at maison Schiaparelli but I am a little sad that he was not given more time to awaken a sleeping beauty.  Schiaparelli had slumbered for nearly 59 years  before Zanini showed his debut collection for the house and it has to be expected that it would take a little time and perhaps a few espressos before the house was up and running and finding its way in a new century.  But in this new century, everything is now!  Right now!

I think given a little time, Zanini could have been a good fit - there was perhaps too much nostalgia for the 'hard chic' of Elsa Schiaparelli's 1930s but there were also some beautiful moments that showed promise...

a few of my favorites - I loved the accessories...

Spring 2014:

Best dress - there should have been more like this (the price points were very expensive - even for couture).   It looks modern, fresh and yet still within the codes of the house and soooo fabulous - love the cuffs on each arm, the pockets, the flip flops...

Fall 2014:

I absolutely loved this rat infested gown and the cropped 'monkey fur style' bolero:

Haute couture is for dreamers, fast fashion is for realists and the twain should never meet.  The fashion world needs a place for dreamers to dream and I am dreaming of rats on silk and a gilded ring in the shape of a Venus the fly trap...

xo, Juliana


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