Just in: When Clothes Made You Smile: Patrick Kelly

When I think of fashion in the 1980s, I think of a riot of color and extravagance.

Patrick Kelly (1954-1990), the Mississippi born designer, celebrated joy, whimsy and color in his body conscious clothing.  He also celebrated his African-American heritage in a way, frankly, I am not sure would be accepted now: he was never without plastic black baby doll pins which he freely gave out, his shopping bags proudly featured a "golliwogg" and "Aunt Jemima" bandana dresses shown with watermelon hats.  Kelly himself wore dungaree overalls and after each runway show, would spray paint a large heart on the runway. 

I was so happy to learn that the Philadelphia Museum of Art will be celebrating Patrick Kelly this April in an exhibit titled Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love. 

Patrick Kelly grew up looking through issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar his grandmother brought home from the family for whom she worked.  He remembered his grandmother "being the chicest woman alive".  He knew he wanted to design clothes and he remembered "there were never any black people in the magazines."  Kelly went on to frequently use African-American models and isn't it incredible that 30 or so years later there is still the debate about the lack of color on the runways and in many fashion magazines.

Kelly is famous for his whimsical and colorful button dresses which were worn surprisingly enough by the actress Betty Davis when she was in her late 70s.

Bette looking bitchy chic in Patrick Kelly's buttons:

Kelly moved to Paris in 1979 and became the first American designer to be invited to join the Chambre Syndicale du Pret-a-Porter des Courtiers et des Createurs de Mode.  Kelly said that "being from Mississippi makes me very special over here (Paris).  They think I've fallen from another planet."

"With other designers you can get clothes that are chic and masculine or hard and way out.  Mine are happy."

Patrick Kelly

and right now at RARE vintage we just received a really wonderful and iconic Patrick Kelly 'dice' jacket and it does indeed make me very happy.  

1988 Patrick Kelly 'dice' jacket.  Sz 38.  Available for purchase at RARE vintage

details:

silk 'dice' lining:

We also have a pair of the original plastic black baby doll pins that Patrick Kelly loved to give out:

Pair of original 1980s Patrick Kelly plastic black baby doll pins available for purchase at RARE vintage.

And we have one pair of Patrick black knit jersey gauntlet gloves embellished with nails:

1980s Patrick Kelly gauntlet gloves embellished with nails.  Available for purchase at RARE vintage.

and we also have : )) a Patrick Kelly iconic black knit jersey dress with brass buttons:

1980s Patrick Kelly brass button dress.  Sz M.  Available for purchase at RARE vintage.

Patrick Kelly back in the day...

from the 2004 retrospective at the Brooklyn Museum:

and a preview from the upcoming exhibit Patrick Kelly: Runway to Love at The Philadelphia Museum of Art:

love, kisses and vintage, Juliana

Think Pink: Roberto Capucci

Think pink! when you shop for summer clothes.
Think pink! if you want that quelque chose.
Red is dead, blue is through,
Greens obscene, brown's taboo.
And there is not the slightest excuse for plum or puce
or chartreuse.
Think pink! forget that Dior said black and rust.
Think pink! who cares if the New Look has no bust.
Now, I wouldn't presume to tell a woman
what a woman oughta think,
But tell her if she's gotta think, think pink!
- Maggie Prescott (Kay Thompson) in Funny Face

I love pink for summer whether it is on my favorite nail polish, Morning Rose by Chanel

which is the softest, prettiest shade of pink with flecks of gold (this color is super flattering and everyone always comments on how nice it is) or on a 1970s Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche dress which is The Ultimate Summer Dress by the way (very Rolling Stones model wife Patti Hansen as shot by Helmut Newton don't you think?!)  But it is also a model sized 34 alas - calling all lucky French sized 34 girls!

Or think Roberto Capucci pink from the 1960s.  Roberto Capucci was recently celebrated at the Philadelphia Museum of art's exhibit, Roberto Capucci: Art Into Fashion.  From 1962 to 1968, Capucci worked from Paris and this dress is from that period.  Known for his architectural shapes, this dress stands out for its sculpted, pleated silhouette at the front.  Rare, collectible, wearable: the RARE vintage way.

1960s Roberto Capucci pink gown.

PURCHASE

INQUIRY

Roberto Capucci: Art into Fashion at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and RARE vintage

Opening next week is the highly anticipated Roberto Capucci: Art into Fashion exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.  It will be wonderful to see the work of a designer who took risks, thought outside the expected dress form and transformed the body into something fresh and beautiful.

I am very excited to be able offer this extremely rare, museum quality collection of 1970s Roberto Capucci.

A Roman candle.  "Blazing with spectacular ideas.  He borrowed from no one.  Not Paris, not the jazz age, not even his own collection of last year." Nan Robertson 1956

Extraordinary 1970s yellow to green ombre silk ribbon and chiffon gown.

"A study in form" is how Capucci describes his work.  He creates a dress once and never looks back.  He is inspired by art, architecture, the Roman Baroque and nature. 

Silver silk and black velvet Capucci ensemble.  

"The act of creation is an assault- of art, beauty, color, emotion, music, nature and poetry."

1970s cream, beige and black Roberto Capucci gabardine dress.  Roma label.

"Dressing is a ritual, a piece of magic."

1970s silk Roberto Capucci Dress.  Roma Paris Label.   Size 4.

A "Cappuccine" is a devoted client of Capucci.  Silvana Magnano a "Cappuccine" in Capucci.  1970

Smokin'!  Princess Maria Pia di Savoia and Capucci in his atelier.

Roberto Capucci Art Into Fashion at the Philadelphia Museum of Art March 16, 2011 - June 5, 2011