Rock Star: 1971 Roberto Cavalli

What would the coolest rock star wear?  Definitely this 1971 aubergine suede jacket from Roberto Cavalli.  It's rock chick fabulous and haute hippie chic with its flower girl applique.  The jacket has a bronze and gold leather trim.

1971 Roberto Cavalli suede jacket.  Size 4/6

  
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Fashion Inspiration: Mademoiselle Roche

Because woman (and man) can not live by vintage fashion alone (though we may try!)  we also live by fashion inspiration.  And we are not alone.  In a 1964 issue of Harpers's Bazaar there is an article on the "Fashion Independent: Mademoiselle Roche".  I was initially captured by Mademoiselle Roches's face (not conventionally model pretty but beautiful AND interesting, her earrings and the little man's scarf tied around her neck.  Peggy Roche was a model of the couture ( I am not sure which houses she modeled for) and in 1964 was a fashion editor of Elle magazine.  Bazaar writes that she was fond of the le jeune homme look wearing a jaunty boys' cap with a striped scarf and a pair of brogues.  She looks completely modern and unique.

She was fascinated with eclectic fashion (like us) and experiments with contrasts.  Here are the images from Bazaar.  Thank you Mademoiselle Roche for the fashion inspiration!

As Fate Would Have It: Tina Chow

I am a firm believer in fate and in destiny.  I am especially a firm believer in fate and destiny particularly when it comes to vintage clothing.  You may love something but if it is not fated to be yours, it will not fit.  Unless, of course, you are a collector, then the fit is not of concern and the very idea of someone actually wearing a Balenciaga or a Madame Gres would be enough to give you the heebie jeebies.  

As fate would have it and much to my surprise and delight - well, delight seems too conservative of a word choice - much to my complete joy, RARE vintage is thrilled to have had some amazing collections of Tina Chow's jewelry.

But it is not just the jewelry that gives us delight.  It is the unexpected discovery from one of our RARE vintage blog readers whom, I might add, pointed out to me that our Stephen Sprouse feathered gown was not in fact from the 1980s but the 1990s and who also sent us this image of the large scale wood cuff I recently posted on the blog.  It is the original ad from the New York Times showing the cuff.  Ours did not have the turquoise inlay but I hope to see one day a similar cuff with the inlay.

Thank you to our RARE vintage blog reader who so kindly shared this image with all of us!

We No Speak Americano

Let me just set the mood for a moment:

Yolanda Be Cool 

Here is another 1960s PVN (if you don't know what that means look at our previous post) by Anna Campastro in black silk with beaded flowers and a beaded fringe at the hem.  The dress is lined in silk and zippers at the side.  Perfect for parties, Campari and soda, Prosecco in a Piazza, un bacio sotto le stelle and for speaking the International language of love and that's amore!!

1960s Anna Campastro  Black Silk Cocktail Dress.  Size 4/6.

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PVN

PVN? Piccolo Vestito Nero.  The Italian equivalent to the LBD.  What is different about the PVN, especially the PVN from the 1960s is the va, va voom factor.  The LBD Italian style is more Sophia Loren then Audrey Hepburn.  It hugs curves and wants to emphasise the bosom and the behind.  It wants you to be glamorous and sexy.  It wants you to have a good time and if you end up in the Trevi fountain like Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita we won't stop you.

The other thing I love about the PVN from the 1960s is how beautifully they are made.  The craft of Italian couture is in all of its glory in this cocktail dress in black silk velvet by G. Baruffaldi of Milano.  Chi?  (Who?) That is even what Italians would say about G. Baruffaldi.    But in Italy there is a tradition of a 'sartoria' dress which is really a couture dress.  It is weighted at the hem so it fits perfectly and is covered in beading done by hand.  There is a black silk lining and the dress zips in the back.

1960s Italian black velvet and beaded cocktail dress.  Size 6.

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Fashion Conference Registration

Here is the registration form for the Fashion Conference:

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Vintage: Value, Values and Enduring Design December 2 -4

One of my favorite things to do besides buying vintage is talking about vintage fashion.  I was very flattered to be asked to participate in the upcoming conference Vintage: Value, Values and Enduring Design December 2nd through the 4th here in New York which will be exploring the enduring value of vintage fashion design.  This is the 12th Annual Fashion Conference.  I will be joined at the conference with Jan Reeder from the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, Hamish Bowles, Hal Rubenstein, Koos Van Den Akker and many others.  Hope to see you there!  

Métiers: Featherwork

Stephen Sprouse worked for Halston in the early 1970s.  In fact, some of Halston's designs were in fact Stephens.  Many people think of Stephen Sprouse as a club kid fashion designer but he was a great fashion designer and artist.  His mini dresses worn by Debbie Harry were very rock and roll and perfect for a night of dancing but they were also beautifully made.  And original.  Stephen had a unique vision.

Here is a beautiful column dress covered in feathers that have been stripped down to the tip.  There is a slight iridescent sheen to the dress because of the feathers and the feathers are tremblant  and move joyfully around the body.  This is a very happy and fun dress.  It is very glamorous as well and as it is Stephen Sprouse, he used an unconventional techno fabric for the dress.   Perfect for having a standout dress at a party!

1990s Stephen Sprouse Feathered Dress.  Size 4/6

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A Perfect Pucci

Nothing quite satisfies the vintage collector like a great Emilio Pucci silk jersey dress.  Ours is in excellent condition and has a graphic print in shades of fuchsia, mocha, brown and black.

1970s Emilio Pucci silk jersey dress.  Size 6. 

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Faux Real!

What to wear with the shoe of the season?  See the "Shoe of the Season" here on the brilliant and ever so astute The Sartorialist.  How about a slightly slouchy faux leopard fur pea coat.  It looks amazing with skinny jeans, a flared pant, a pencil skirt, I could go on and on...  Ain't nothing like the faux thing baby!

1960s faux leopard fur coat.

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YSL: The Assurance of Dreams

The setting: Vogue 1976.  

The Description: "It's a dream," my neighbor said.  She was quite literally right.  Dreams are the language of the subconscious and color belongs to the subconscious of Western culture.  Saint Laurent said it took him only three weeks to design this collection and that, for the first time, he was able to set it all down, at once and definitively, in drawings that had the somnambulistic assurance of dreams. 

by Pierre Schneider

  

The photos: 

 

 Photographs by Duane Michaels

A Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Russian Collection silk blouse:

 

1970s Russian Collection print silk blouse.  Size 36.

"Astounding color, radiant gold, fabrics like cobwebs veiling rich skin... purple panne velvet, emerald silk faille, patterned lamé .."

 Textured rust colored silk Yves Saint Laurent blouse.  Buttons on the side.  Size 36.

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1976 Chanel Haute Couture Beaded Cardigan and Skirt

Just back from The French Hand Laundry in California (otherwise known as our neighborhood dry cleaner - just three thousand miles away!  So you see the lengths I will go in my search for perfection for RARE!), restored, refreshed and re-pleated is this incredible Chanel haute couture runway ensemble. 

Here is an original image from 1976 - and most likely it was in fact this ensemble.

I love the glossy happiness and sexiness of this image (who said you have to be bare to be sexy?!) and The Dude in the sunglasses at the piano.

The long cardigan is fully and gloriously beaded and quite heavy.  (You can sneak in a little work out whilst in your couture!) The skirt is pleated in tiny double pleats.  Couture craziness!  The FHL left these with a stitch to secure the pleat which is to be removed  before wearing.  Mais bien sur!  The devil is in the details!  Or is it the petites mains are in the details... or is it that the FHL is in the details!

How beautiful would this be for a very special black tie event in the winter?!   You will look like a Snow Princess... a Chanel Snow Princess that is!

Glossy red lips not required but how fabulous will they  look with this?!  FABULOUS!

1976 Chanel haute couture ensemble.  Runway sample.  Size 4.

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