Showing posts with label Charles James. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Charles James. Show all posts

Monday, July 21, 2014

My Date for the 2014 Met Gala was Charles James

Well, not exactly - but my date for the Met gala did wear a Charles James periwinkle blue silk chiffon gown from the 1930s.  Do you know what the chances were of someone actually wearing a Charles James dress to the the Charles James exhibit at the Met?  Well, as the saying goes a million to one.  It is all the more surprising because Charles James, famously difficult, loathe to even actually give his dresses to the clients who had paid for them, had a remarkable but small production.  There simply are not many Charles James pieces out there.  They rarely come up for auction, are seldom even seen and there are very few still privately owned.

But my date, my friend and vintage haute couture collector, Regina Drucker, wore not, only a Charles James gown but an extremely rare and exceptionally early 1930s gown.   Regina, for obvious reasons, is my frenemy because I love her very amazing collection and every so often, we discover we have been bidding against each other at an auction for the same item - great minds think alike!

Regina was recently featured in the Financial Times in an article on Conceptual Fashion (you can read it here).  Regina collects important  pieces by Issey Miyake and had bought an early 1970s Miyake linen jumpsuit from RARE vintage.  She obviously has very good taste ; )

The Financial Times referred to 'wearer-collectors' and I like that term very much.  You can be collector  and a wearer but being a wearer comes with some responsibilities.  Sometimes the wearer-collector even saves a vintage piece that some may have felt was not worth the trouble but as you will see with Regina's Met gala outfit, it was very well worth the trouble and challenges.

So Regina wore an early 1930s Charles James periwinkle blue silk chiffon dress with streamers.  She paired it with a 1960s Balenciaga coat the color of fallen autumn leaves and a Stephen Jones feathered head piece and vintage Manolo Blahniks.

At The Mark, a few hours before the Met gala...




A detail of the back of the dress with its distinctive and thoroughly unconventional cowl like back with the streamers pulling through...


Here is a detail of Charles James' signature seaming - he did things no other designer would do - the angled seaming slopes diagonally from the hip to the center and then straight down:


Front detail with its folded over edge making a shawl collar:


And a note on Regina's Balenciaga coat which she had restored by a priest, by hand... it looks like feathers but it is actually organza with a frayed edge and each organza curl was heated and curled by hand to resemble a feather - there are hundreds and hundreds of these organza curls!  And it is absolutely breathtakingly beautiful!

The pale seashell pink Stephen Jones feather headpiece you see in the photo below is flecked with little crystals and was a purchase from RARE vintage.  You see, Regina does have very good taste!


Regina was a smashing success in her James and Balenciaga, Stephen Jones ensemble, with Hamish Bowles, Stephen Jones, Alber Elbaz and more all running up to her...

I love you Regina and thank you for being my date, we had a grand time! Juliana

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Carolyn Murphy in a 1960s Roberto Capucci Ball Gown from RARE vintage at the Met Gala!

I was very lucky to attend Monday night's Met Gala and it was a thrilling and enchanted evening of handsome men, dapper and elegant, in white tie and decorations and the women in silk ball gowns.  There seemed to have been a little confusion about the meaning of white tie - which is, a black tail coat, a waistcoat, a wing collared shirt and a white bow tie.  I was a little uncertain how it would look but when I walked up the red carpeted steps and shook hands with a very handsome Bradley Cooper in white tie, I knew he was beautiful - oops!  I mean, I knew it was going to be beautiful : )  

We had cocktails as usual in the Charles Engelhard Court which was a dream with ice blue silk velvet sofas, men in white tie (some but not all, naughty, naughty) and women in silk ball gowns and all of us swanning about long trains.  My train included : )

The beautiful Carolyn Murphy was inspired by the classically beautiful Hitchock ice-cool-blonde beauty Grace Kelly but made the look her own by wearing a midnight blue, rare and significant, 1960s Roberto Capucci ball gown my store, RARE vintage.  And she looked amazing!

Carolyn Murphy at the Met Gala in our RARE vintage 1960s Roberto Capucci ball gown.



We all knew it was The One the moment she tried it on and Capucci, an Italian designer, was as consumed with form and architecture as Charles James so it was a meaningful tribute to Mr. James.  

More to come tomorrow on the Met Gala!

love, kisses and Met Gala memories, Juliana


Thursday, April 10, 2014

Cecil Beaton, Millicent Rogers, The Maid and Charles James #3

"Charles James is a superb tailor in satin and has affinities with the French in his master craftsmanship and attention to detail.  He was naturally delighted that her (Millicent Rogers) orders should be so extensive, for it kept his business thriving.  But after having put so much time into the making of four dozen blouses (yes, you read that right: an order for four dozen Charles James blouses!) which he felt were destined for Manhattan Storage, he rebelled.  When Mrs. Rogers maid telephoned a further order, Charles James complained, "Why, Mrs. Rogers is nothing but a hoarder!"

The maid replied, "Not a hoarder, Mr James, a collector!" True to the maid's words, in 1949 Millicent Rogers presented tot he Brooklyn Museum a collection of clothes created for her by Charles James."
Cecil Beaton

Millicent Rogers in a Charles James bouse.  Photo by Louise Dahl Wolfe
love, kisses and classic Charles James, Juliana

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Diana Vreeland and Charles James #2

Leading up to Charles James: Beyond Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I will be posting quotes about and from Charles James.  

"He would far rather work and rework a beautiful dress ordered for a certain party than have that dress appear at that party."
Diana Vreeland on Charles James

Now, nearly 100 pieces of James' work will be all be dressed up and ready for the party of the year on May 5th at the Metropolitan Museum of Art!



love, kisses and vintage Charles James, Juliana

Monday, January 20, 2014

Marit Guinness Aschan and Charles James #2

Leading up to Charles James: Beyond Fashion at the Metroploitan Museum of Art, I will be posting quotes about and from Charles James.  Our second quote is from Marit Guinness Aschan.

"And he thought my mother the most beautiful woman.  He wrote to her and said she was the most beautiful woman he ever knew except his own mother."  
Marit Guinness Aschan

Marit Guinness on her coming out:

"Oh it was lovely.  My mother was so sweet and my father too.  And I had dresses, the famous Charles James clothes, they were considered too eye catching, but my mother had the dresses, and I had them with my trousseau as well as my wedding dress.  And these clothes were very famous.

Well, the V & A bought one for permanent showing.  They were very tiny in the waist.  He (James) was a great friend of Cecil Beaton, then they fell out for awhile, but he is considered the greatest dress designer that's ever been, him and Balenciaga."
Marit Guinness Aschan

love, kisses and vintage, Juliana


Sunday, January 19, 2014

Austine Hearst and Charles James #1

Leading up to Charles James: Beyond Fashion at the Metroploitan Museum of Art, I will be posting quotes about and from Charles James.  I thought it would be appropriate to start with one of his favorite clients, Austine Hearst...

"I will always remember the magic of wearing one of Charles James' ravishing, romantic ball gowns.  I remember being transformed by him like Cinderella into a radiant princess.  

Everyone turns when I sweep into the room, the gentleman in admiration, the women in envy.

I'm the sensation of the evening, a triumphant opera star, showered with bouquets and a standing ovation, a prima ballerina bringing down the house.

I'm a star!"

Austine Hearst on wearing Charles James


Monday, September 23, 2013

Let the James Begin!

And so it begins... Charles James, the focus of next year's Spring exhibition and Met Gala, will no doubt be influencing designers in the coming months and it looks like Zac Posen already got his James on Juliette Lewis at the CFDA awards in June.


Very James: the color, the satin, the details...


and the original, the inspiration...  oh, to be one of these lovelies...


Wednesday, September 18, 2013

SEE and SEEN: That was Then, This is Now: Charles James

There are two certainties in this life: 

1. Tickets to the Met Gala, Charles James: Beyond Fashion, in May 2014 will not cost you anything even slightly remote to $200.  

and 2. Ain't no one, but no one, is going to be sashaying in a fashion show after dinner wearing a Charles James Four Leaf Clover Dress or a Charles James Swan Gown.

The Genius of Charles James.  The Brooklyn Museum. 1982.


"Like the career of James, the exhibition and the evening were more idiosyncratic than most.  There was to be the requisite dinner, this for 600 last night, to be attended by such guests as Halston, who underwrote the dinner and the fashion show, Bianca Jagger, Perry Ellis, C.Z. Guest.  There were nice nostalgic touches:  James' favorite champagne, Moet & Chandon, was to be served at dinner and the tables were set with his favorite flowers, orchids.

But unlike other exhibitions, the evening was to feature a fashion show of models wearing that designer's famous confections."  The New York Times.  October 15, 1982

"A benefit dinner and fashion show in the Blum Gallery at the Brooklyn Museum will open the exhibition "The Genius of Charles James".  The late designer, such a perfectionist that he only completed 200 dresses in a long career, is represented also by lithographs and the lip sofa considered so avant-garde in its day.  After dinner, models will parade in 20 James creations on loan from such proud possessors as Jennifer Jones, Elizabeth de Cuevas and Austine Hearst, co-chairman for the event with Halston.  Patrons will also be able to preview the exhibition before it opens to the public October 16th.  Tickets, $200. " The New York Times. October 10, 1982

Mrs. Charles James photographed by Cecil Beaton at 716 Madison Avenue.  1955

Dominique de Menil wearing Charles James on a Charles James designed sofa

Detail of extreme beauty... Charles James Swan gown...


I am so excited for upcoming exhibition Charles James: Beyond Fashion in the newly renovated galleries of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art!  Is it too soon to worry about what to wear?!  I don't think so!

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Happy New Year from RARE vintage!!!

My New Year's Resolution is to find these five dresses for myself - oh, ooops!  I mean for RARE vintage...

1. Vionnet
1936 Vionnet evening coat

2. Yves Saint Laurent

1988 Yves Saint Laurent 'Dove' dress

3. Schiaparelli

1938 Schiaparelli 'Skeleton' dress

4. Christian Dior

1954 Christian Dior 'Venus' ball gown 
5. Charles James

1956 Charles James 'Balloon' Gown

a vintage store owner can dream : )

Sweet dreams to everyone in 2012!!

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Weekend Reading 17: Dear Charles... Millicent Rogers and Charles James A Love Story of Sorts

Weekend reading for you from RARE vintage.  Read on...

Dear Charles,
In answer to your various letters, I do think yours suddenly is a queer way of acting.  A while back when you needed money in Europe I sent it to you in exchange for a suit the whole of which I finally got a year later. 
Millicent 


Dearest, dearest Millicent,
In this, I have entirely forgotten or struck out of mind all the dealings which went to make up the total of of 6,000 in Bill A.   I have simply arranged a gift to the Museum for the sum of 6,000, which is entirely payable out of your untaxed income  and should NOT cost you more then 1,000, and therefore saves you between four and five grand." 
Charles


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